All Chef Should Study Here’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Ranks Fourth on List of London’s Best Restaurants.
When compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a distant area of northern London.
An Shocking Honour
This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners completely shocked.
“I’m completely surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble place earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.
A Charm of Simplicity
This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.
The Star Dish: Tantuni
However, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.
The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.
The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.
Beyond the Basic Tantuni
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.
Rising Above the Stars
Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.
The Creed of Heart
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.
The Journey of Hard Work
Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.
A Achievement for the People
The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.